Hidden Atotonilco---The House of Exercises, The Ejercitantas Enter

We are deep inside the House of Exercises in Atotonilco, when our guide announces that the ejercitantas---the female pilgrims---are arriving. Our exploration of the dining and cooking areas, the sleeping quarters, and even the vast gathering hall where self-flagellation is performed has been permitted, but now the pilgrims are arriving and it is time to go. Much to our surprise, our friend and guide leads us towards the sounds of singing, and soon we are amidst a blur of babies, women, rebozos and forward-striding feet streaming in with the morning light.

Although this is a period when only women may enter, I am surprised to see men, obviously in an official capacity, escorting the women inside. We learn that these are the highly respected celadores.

In the organized heirarchy of La Celaduria de la Casa de Ejercicios, there are eight posts, all men, known as the celadores mayores. These men are part of a long lineage---their mothers and fathers, reaching back to their great-great-grand parents and beyond, who served before them in this post---that once assumed, is held until death.

The eight principals train and oversee an ever-growing network of celadores and celadoras located in every part of Mexico, and I am told, throughout Latin and South America as well as other parts of the world. One of the primary duties of these far-flung officials is to bring three groups a year to the House of Exercises. Amazingly, this network of devoted volunteers personally travels with and escorts each group of pilgrims to and from Atotonilco, regardless of distance. Once inside, the celadores shepherd their flock through the days and nights of exercises and confession, serving as trusted advisors and confidents though not of the church. This is the aspect that makes the House of Exercises truly remarkable.

The celadores devotion to duty became evident when a friend, living in remote Michoacan, related the following experience. While sequestered in the House of Exercises, our friend's sister became gravely ill and it was clear she was near death. Family members traveled to Atotonilco to accompany her home, but the extremely responsible celadores demanded proof that these were indeed her brothers, while thoroughly confirming the circumstances of this early departure. Leaving the private enclave mid-week was serious business. Our friend was permitted to leave, escorted to Michoacan by her brothers and a celador. Once in Michoacan, the celador made certain that she was safe at home and had everything needed in this time of sadness...plus confirmed that our friend's sister was indeed dying.

I had mentioned that once a celador or celadora, always a celador until death. But what if a mere man (or woman) does not wish a lifetime of priestly responsibilities? Of the current eight mayores, there was a crisis when a celador mayor wished to resign his post, perhaps tired of hearing his neighbors' sins. The people objected, loudly, recounting the many ways that this individual had lovingly guided them through years of personal trials. Today he remains a celador, and is considered among the kindest and best in their storied ranks.

The multitudes continue to file past us, and I am speechless as easily one thousand enter with no end in sight. Our escort smiles remarking, "Muy poco gente". So few people in comparison to the month of July, when 5,000 enter every week.

We are engulfed in the moment. The faithful masses. The ringing bells. The joyous singing. All under the caring vigil of the celadors and celadoras. Every pilgrim anxious to begin the spiritual marathon ahead. Overcome with emotion, tears are now streaming down my face as reluctantly, I leave the mystical world of La Casa de Ejecicios del Santuario de Jesus Nazareno en Atotonilco.

Parting thought...Mexican folk art is celebratory.

PHOTOS BY DEB HALL.