Hidden Atotonilco, The House of Exercises---Feeding the Faithful

Behind Mexico's historic Santuario Atotonilco exists a city unto itself...la Casa de Ejercicios...the House of Exercises. As tens of thousands enter and exit the mysterious walled compound annually, outsiders are left whispering and wondering about whips, flagellation and the fabled religious practices of the pilgrims within.

Recently, I had the privilege of entering these storied walls...and the experience was fascinating. Follow me inside for a rare glimpse of the hidden world of the Casa de Ejercicios.

It is May, the Marian month, and for the duration only women will enter the House of Exercises at Santuario Atotonilco. We quickly proceed past the ticket booth into the inner sanctum, imminently aware that we have only a few minutes before the faithful enter and we must leave.

Posted ticket prices are:

Camas $270.00
Cuartos $350.00
General $200.00

Our guide and friend explains that in addition to a life-changing religious experience, the price includes accommodations as described above, Sunday to Sunday, and all meals.

Living by Atotonilco, we are acutely aware that thousands are coming and going...literally thousands...and yet, the size and vastness of each area (such as the dining hall above) astounds. Every aspect is designed for a shared experience of eating, sleeping, praying, confessing, and bathing. Bathing, just as the "original converts" once did in the thermal springs of Atotonilco inspiring the founding of the Santuario and House of Exercises on this very spot.

We mentally do the math beginning to grasp the expense, labor and organization required to feed the faithful. And then we entered the kitchen.

The row of gas-fueled, humongous casos---pots bigger than any bathtub---is impressive and the kitchen seems to stretch on forever. Typical fare includes frijoles, lentils, caldo (soup), pappas con jitomate, and atole y pan. Simple, good food. Formerly, pilgrims brought cooks from their home villages, but today the Casa de Ejercicios employs local workers (approximately twenty in all) to prepare meals and perform other daily tasks. If today's menu is not to your liking, pilgrims can shop from a fully stocked, nun-operated convenience store within the compound.

Feeding thousands means dirty dishes from thousands, and this too has been planned for. Forty feet of sinks do the trick.

Everything is in place to feed the ejercitantas, as female pilgrims are called, and we excitedly push forward towards dark tunnels and the mysteries of penitence.

Parting thought...Mexican folk art is mysterious at times.

PHOTOS BY DEB HALL.